The first step to upgrading to the electric pump is to remove the no longer required plumbing. The fittings shown are no longer necessary.

These replacement fittings are available from RWI. The last cost on the Tees was $58 each!

To mount the new electric pump you will need to fabricate a bracket. The simplest is a 1X1 square aluminum tube. The plug on top is welded in and threaded 1/4X28" for the alternator adjuster turnbuckle.

Two holes are for attaching to the airframe water pump weldment and the other two are to attach the electric pump. The whole bracket is about 8" long.

Before drilling into the airframe weldment to attach the bracket I suggest temp installing the plumbing. Remember that the square mount should be even with the adjusting ear of the alternator. Clamp into position and ensure that all hoses have adequate clearances from airframe and exhaust headers.

Hoses can take numerous trips to NAPA before you find the correct fit for a particular application. NAPA 8689 is the most difficult to identify and is the bottom hose pictured .

This is what it should look like if you take the time to align before drilling. Note the red segmented belt. By using this style belt I was able to prevent having to remove the secondary to fit a conventional rubber V belt. This industrial belt is rated at 10 HP and calculations show that our alternators only draw @3/4 HP.

I cannot over emphasize the importance to properly shield the plumbing from the hot exhaust header.

Note that one Tee eliminates the thermostat housing. The pump can be cycled by either a toggle or engine mounted thermal switch.

I hope this information will help converting from the mechanical to electric water pump. If you have any questions please call or email me with your interogative.

Electric Water Pump

Rotorway-Rework